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With a calm strategic nod... [Jun. 22nd, 2005|03:55 pm]
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Back in London after a 36 hour airport hopping marathon between Sea-Tac and Gatwick - or only 28 hours if you want to be picky and factor out timezone jumps; but since the 8 vanished hours were exactly the ones I might have found time to sleep in if only they'd been there, I don't think my journey was any the less epic for their lack. So it's Wednesday and I haven't slept since the weekend. I'm not sure if these sentences look right to you, but the way they're writhing gently on the screen in front of me is definitely disconcerting me.

London, I'd almost forgotten you. I paid £8 for a one-way train ticket from the airport to London bridge, followed by a £5.20 pass to negotiate the Underground for the rest of the day. Total converted price for the longer journey from anywhere in Seattle to Sea-Tac, or vice versa, or the round trip if you're so inclined: a princely 75p. Oh, London.

And then, with four vast and heavy bags to lug through the sweltering tunnels of the tube network, including the infinitely heavy suitcase made of inch-thick rocket-impact-resistant titanium that my Seattle housemates found in a dumpster and bequeathed to me when I discovered that the volume of my possessions was approximately twice the existing capacity of my luggage, pouring with sweat, groaning and panting from the sheer effort of the effective opposite of walking on the moon, coming to a dead halt every twenty tiny paces and dropping the case with a crash to save my trembling hand from becoming irreparably fucked, I lost count of the number of times someone barged into or past me without any acknowledgement beyond a snarl. Special mention to the prim briefcase-carrying gentleman who, finding someone tottering under an evidently barely manageable weight of bags in this path, refused to step to one side but stopped dead in his tracks inches in front of my face forcing me to heave my burden around him, presumably because walking on the left side he knew his was the technical right of way.

Outside, crossing the road, I was shocked and surprised when a car failed to decelerate on seeing me but whizzed past at speed, six inches from my feet at most. In Seattle, drivers seeing a pedestrian ahead never, ever fail to stop and wave them companionably across to safety. Four months was all it took me to forget that it's nearly the mathematical inverse of this that holds true in the UK.

And then there's the litter everywhere, doing its utmost to counteract the easefulness of London's many commendable green spaces; and so much graffiti, almost none of it in the name of art, but just vomited down walls after a night or a life on the piss specifically to make the world uglier. If you're not enjoying yourself in the place you're stuck in, why should anyone else, right? And the worst thing is I can *understand*, totally, why you'd lash out in this way in a city where nobody cares.

I feel like I should write a j'accuse for Smoke, now that I've seen how cities with just an ounce of community spirit to their names can be, explaining that these living conditions are neither acceptable or necessary, and demanding that London and Londoners try harder. Try reading [info]myxrayeyes all at once instead of piecemeal: how long before it ceases to seem like hilarious japes and just starts getting you down?

And yet, maybe it's good for me to be back here. Maybe I need to be in a situation where everything is wrong, and going from bad to worse, rather than rowing gently downstream in a life that might as well be just a dream, maybe I *need* to be needled into action. After my time away I know I, and the world, can do a lot better than we (knowing no other kind of life) used to assume was the case. It's time to make those things so.
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[User Picture]From: [info]dyddgu
2005-06-22 03:57 pm (UTC)

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Always, always, always, when one is a teeny person and carrying a heavy load, everyone expects you to move out of the way for them. It seems, sadly, to be the way of the world.
[User Picture]From: [info]verlaine
2005-06-22 04:05 pm (UTC)

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Though of course I am a *giant* person carrying a heavy load, which makes it perhaps more understandable. I just don't think it would happen in polite, considerate Seattle.

There is a sequel to this post in which I reveal that, while impeccably mannered, Seattlites are quite ridiculously aloof; they'll treat a stranger immaculately but never invite them around to tea. The upside of London's belligerent rudeness is that everybody gets it full in the face and has their day ruined by it on a regular basis, so it's easier to bond over it in the pub later. Paradoxically, it may be easier for truly friendly behaviour to shine forth in an awe-inspiringly unfriendly city...
[User Picture]From: [info]hoshuteki
2005-06-22 03:58 pm (UTC)

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Gosh, so many complaints! You must be a true Londoner... However, I would say (and really, no offence intended) we tend to get a little defensive and tetchy when you spend so much verbiage decrying a place.
[User Picture]From: [info]verlaine
2005-06-22 04:15 pm (UTC)

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First impressions upon return merely, but it is necessary for journalistic integrity to relate them honestly! I wouldn't have come back at all if I hadn't thought there was plenty to love about London too. Not too much of that is on the surface, is all ;)
[User Picture]From: [info]wyliekat
2005-06-22 03:59 pm (UTC)

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Sounds like a healthy dose of culture shock to me.
[User Picture]From: [info]barrysarll
2005-06-22 04:00 pm (UTC)

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Watch it, you're starting to sound like [info]imomus...

No city is that welcoming when one is journey-worn, sleep-deprived and out of synch with its genius loci.
[User Picture]From: [info]verlaine
2005-06-22 04:20 pm (UTC)

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[info]imomus is a scholar and a gentleman! There is no LJer I'd rather bear comparison with.

London became more welcoming with the arrival of [info]mono_bertie amd later [info]miss_newham on the scene. London may be a harsh and thin-lipped mistress, but that's not to say she doesn't bring out the best in her many orphan charges.
[User Picture]From: [info]atommickbrane
2005-06-22 04:00 pm (UTC)

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Get out of my friends page! I'm a busy journaller!! Don't have TIME! Mind the GAP!!

See you after Glasto :)
[User Picture]From: [info]elethe
2005-06-22 04:01 pm (UTC)

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I thought the reason you had moved to the US in the first place is tyou wanted to change the world.
[User Picture]From: [info]verlaine
2005-06-22 04:09 pm (UTC)

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I wanted to change myself. And I think I have.

It's the only possible first step if you want to change your world. Stop blaming it for your problems and start looking at how you fit into it; or let yourself be fit into it without a fight.
[User Picture]From: [info]my_red_dream
2005-06-22 04:05 pm (UTC)

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Welcome back! I demand to meet you.
[User Picture]From: [info]verlaine
2005-06-22 04:34 pm (UTC)

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I'm sure it can be arranged! Not that we did a great job of organising ourselves in the months before I left ;)
[User Picture]From: [info]publicansdecoy
2005-06-22 04:05 pm (UTC)

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Welcome back. You should have eyeballed the prim briefcase-carrying gentleman. It would've been a rest from walking for a bit, and a larf too.

-x-
[User Picture]From: [info]bateleur
2005-06-22 04:10 pm (UTC)

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Americans don't run over people in their cars because it gets very lawsuity very quickly.
[User Picture]From: [info]verlaine
2005-06-22 04:24 pm (UTC)

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I'm not quite sure of the letter of the UK road laws, but what the Americans do seems eminently sensible: give pedestrians the absolute right of way, but fine them if they arse about in the road instead of using provided crosswalks. Good for everyone!
[User Picture]From: [info]artysmokes
2005-06-22 04:16 pm (UTC)

Just quickly....

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It's good to have you back.

With your return, the average IQ of people in London has now zoomed up to a mighty 87.9 :)
[User Picture]From: [info]verlaine
2005-06-22 04:34 pm (UTC)

Re: Just quickly....

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From, what, about 10? ;)
[User Picture]From: [info]xxxlibris
2005-06-22 04:24 pm (UTC)

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Outside, crossing the road, I was shocked and surprised when a car failed to decelerate on seeing me but whizzed past at speed, six inches from my feet at most...Four months was all it took me to forget that it's nearly the mathematical inverse of this that holds true in the UK

*cough* Los Angeles *cough*

Seriously - more hit and runs in the area where I live here that I've ever heard of in a comparable time frame in London.
[User Picture]From: [info]verlaine
2005-06-22 04:27 pm (UTC)

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Well, if you must choose the heat-addled south for your American adventures...

I think it's fortunate that the British are a nation of good drivers and cautious pedestrians, because there's a lot more improvisation that goes on on both sides here that's got to be accidents waiting to happen.
[User Picture]From: [info]spiffybee
2005-06-22 04:25 pm (UTC)

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God, those keep lefters are vey adamant, aren't they?! I had a formidable old lady chastise me about that when I was in London. Everybody behind her just rolled their eyes/glared at me.
[User Picture]From: [info]verlaine
2005-06-22 04:32 pm (UTC)

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There's a myth that British people find queueing much less objectionable than members of other races. In fact, that's not true at all: the British *loathe* queueing. But they tolerate it for the occasional opportunity it affords to tear strips off the hapless person who joins the line at the wrong end, or otherwise breaks the formal laws of the occasion. Nothing's more fun than self-righteous tutting and moaning, it seems.
[User Picture]From: [info]d_sameboy
2005-06-22 04:41 pm (UTC)

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Your experience of returning to London reminds me of exactly why I left.

To be fair though, London is never more vile that when you're several hundred feet under it, and in the height of summer.

It's good to have you back, though!
[User Picture]From: [info]verlaine
2005-06-22 05:06 pm (UTC)

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I'd move to lovely Bedfordshire like a shot if I thought there was a niche for me there, and visit my London friends at weekends! Alas, I suspect it's easier for native sons of the area...

It's good to be back. Being able to post at a time when 90% of my flist isn't asleep is truly a thing beyond price.
[User Picture]From: [info]vardebedian
2005-06-22 04:45 pm (UTC)

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Special mention to the prim briefcase-carrying gentleman who, finding someone tottering under an evidently barely manageable weight of bags in this path, refused to step to one side but stopped dead in his tracks inches in front of my face forcing me to heave my burden around him, presumably because walking on the left side he knew his was the technical right of way

I've found myself in this situation before, especially on a Friday morning. Me and some fellow tube commuter find our respective ways blocked by the other and just stand there for an age, until one of us (finally!) realises "maybe he's as hungover as I am and just assuming, like me, that this problem will solve itself if he stands immobile for long enough". Then, of course, nothing further happens as one of us works out that the response to this thought is to move ourselves but fails to achieve this elementary feat. The diorama usually ends with one of us sort of sliding past the other against whichever wall we both turn out to be leaning on.
[User Picture]From: [info]fraxl
2005-06-22 04:55 pm (UTC)

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As much as I love Seattle, I'd give anything to be in London for a while... for exactly the reasons you've mentioned. London challenges a person... forces you to work for the rewards of living there. Makes me feel alive just thinking about it.
Even so, Seattle misses you. Justin and I saw the verlaine-a-like at Cafe Vita yesterday and it just wasnt the same.
[User Picture]From: [info]verlaine
2005-06-22 05:02 pm (UTC)

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I think you've hit the nail on the head. The fact that it's going to be more of a challenge to make things work here is *why* I've come back in many ways. Am I going to spend my entire life avoiding facing hard things and problems? I am not, madam - I'm going to take them on and beat them senseless ;)
[User Picture]From: [info]shreena
2005-06-22 04:55 pm (UTC)

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To be fair there are a LOT more pedestrians in Britain than in the States. If drivers stopped for everyone trying to cross the road, they'd never get anywhere.
[User Picture]From: [info]verlaine
2005-06-22 04:59 pm (UTC)

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And, also to be fair, I got repeatedly pissed off by the crosswalks of, e.g., the outlying district of Bellevue, which could take up to what seemed about 5 minutes to change the lights to allow a poor pedestrian to dash through a lull in the roaring traffic. I don't see why UK folk feel the *need* to jaywalk when the traffic lights are so much more sympathetic to their needs!
[User Picture]From: [info]owlfish
2005-06-22 05:55 pm (UTC)

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And yet I'm moving to London anyways. Sometimes I forget why (oh, I have an SO, that's right). It's so much trouble packing all my belongings up, and I'm spending more weeks about it than you are. I will especially miss the green of Toronto. The neighborhood I live in is intensely gardened by retired Portugese gentlemen who devote their entire lives to a square of grass or dirt. Lovely green tranquility.

I hope that London will have more good sides after sleep.
[User Picture]From: [info]666inmyheart
2005-06-22 06:07 pm (UTC)

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I assure you Senor [info]verlaine, London has its beautiful sides. Sometimes it's just very very very very difficult to see it amidst all the shit. Setttle down, get accustomed to the place again, go for a wander. It's an enchanting whore of a city, a bitch goddess if you will.

And cheers for the [info]myxrayeyes plug. It's been a bit quiet there recently. It needs a kick up the backside.

xx
[User Picture]From: [info]paulcurtis
2005-06-22 06:09 pm (UTC)

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Hmmm...perhaps you should have been in NYC. The shock of going back might be less severe; nobody seems to accuse NYC of being too polite. I still kind of prefer it to my home town...
[User Picture]From: [info]verlaine
2005-06-23 02:02 pm (UTC)

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NYC next time I get a yearning for life across the oceans, perhaps. It *is* where I was born.

Then again, I've left some significant pieces of my heart on the West Coast now, and maybe I'll have no choice but to go back form them.
[User Picture]From: [info]scarletdemon
2005-06-22 07:04 pm (UTC)

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I liked Seattle too. I hope we get to hang out on a tube walk again soon and if London gets you down I'd be very willing to drag you round Brighton for a day.

I'm glad you got back safely. (Hug)
[User Picture]From: [info]verlaine
2005-06-23 02:05 pm (UTC)

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Trips to Brighton in the summertime are always a good idea. And I will of course be on every single tubewalk that I'm in the same country as!
[User Picture]From: [info]spiffybee
2005-06-22 07:31 pm (UTC)

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I actually get miffed when Seattle drivers stop for me as a jaywalker. They're messing up my timing, damnit! Then I have to stand there in front of their car, waiting for the other lane(s) to clear. Which, of course, they didn't think about--they were to busy being self-righteously polite! Idiots. I usually just wave them on.
[User Picture]From: [info]ravenblack
2005-06-23 05:11 am (UTC)

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Yes indeed, I hate when drivers make way for me. So much so that when I'm intending to cross a street, I always pretend I'm not so that nobody will slow down. I'm not in a hurry, there's plenty of time for me to cross between vehicles, I don't see why people should waste their time and fuel bringing a huge mass of metal to a stop and back up to speed again just for me.

I kind of which people would *never* slow down for a person crossing in front of them (except when there's crossing lights or what-have-you), since there's generally plenty of time to cross in a gap even in heavy traffic, a-la frogger, but I can never actually *do* that because it would make people slam on their brakes and cause accidents. So I'm forced to wait for no real reason. Bah.
From: [info]daweaver
2005-06-22 08:02 pm (UTC)

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Welcome back. My experience suggests that keeping to the right of the footpath is the generally received norm. Exceptions tend to be where the path is not quite wide enough to allow two people to pass in opposite directions (safety dictates keeping left); and when one is a slow-moving pedestrian (keep to the side furthest away from the traffic.)

Now get some sleep, get out there, and change the world like you know you want to.
[User Picture]From: [info]darklily
2005-06-22 09:38 pm (UTC)

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Try reading myxrayeyes all at once instead of piecemeal: how long before it ceases to seem like hilarious japes and just starts getting you down?

At first, it got me down. Then I found this, and started longing for my very own wall and cultured vandal...
[User Picture]From: [info]bluedevi
2005-06-22 11:30 pm (UTC)

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I liked that one.

It's not London, but I loved this:


[User Picture]From: [info]ravenblack
2005-06-23 05:12 am (UTC)

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If Seattle charged London prices for public transport, nobody would use it. Supply and demand > municipal planning.
[User Picture]From: [info]pete23
2005-06-23 10:26 am (UTC)

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welcome to hell. simulaneously more and less fun than you imagine.
[User Picture]From: [info]verlaine
2005-06-23 02:22 pm (UTC)

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Very nicely put!
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